Auguste Escoffier, the pivotal chef who established how we eat, course by course, liked chicken paprika so much that he display-cooked it at his pavillion in the Paris World Fair at the turn of the century. Later on it became a classic on the menu at his restaurant, the Ritz.

• 8 small bone-less, skinless chicken thighs [ free-range is best ]
  
• ½ white onion, diced
  
• ½ cup good quality chicken stock [ naturally home-made would be better ]
  
• 1½ cups crushed tomatoes, fresh when in season, or drained san marziano
  
• 1 red or yellow bell pepper, sliced in lengths (be sure to remove seeds and veins – they are bitter)
  
• another red or yellow bell pepper, diced fine
  
• some spoonfuls of fat- preferably duck or goose, but olive oil will do
  
• dolllops according to taste, of sour cream and a little heavy cream
  
• salt
  
• 2 tbs sweet paprika, you may add 1-2 tsp hot if you like

Traditionally galuska, Hungarian egg noodles are the side. Or use gnocchi or fingerling potatoes to sop up the sauce. A small cucumber salad, sprinkled with paprika is also most appropriate.

A delicate red from western Hungary, like a Kekfrankos would be elevating!

During the war my aunt Eva lived through constant hunger and weeks in dungeon-like cellars. Years later, safe in her family home in Pest she rejected my offer to cook her roast duck leg with croquettes, requesting instead paprikas krumpli. These are her strict instructions:

• 3-4 medium yellow potatoes
• 1 finely diced white onion
• Stock or simply water
• 1-2 TBS sweet paprika ½ tsp hot [optional ]

Mince onion very fine and add to pot with fat or olive oil, sautee till golden. Peel and quarter potatoes, throw into pot with salt and paprika. Swirl around for a minute or so , then add stock or water to cover. Lower heat to simmer cover, with lid, and cook about 20 minutes, or till tender. Keep your eye on the liquid, you want it to be nearly absorbed, but too dry, and then again not too saucy – the potatoes should soak up and have just a little left over.

With the introduction of a sausage or hunk of ham it becomes a Brueghlesque feast, alone it is sheer comfort. These paprika-infused taters are a nice side dish as well.

Have a glass of dark beer, or some earthy red wine, perhaps a Kadarka.

• round Verona radicchio, coarsely chopped, enough to fill a large saucepan
• good bacon, cut into small cubes to fit one cupped hand, or pancetta
• 2 pats sweet butter, and 1 TBS light olive oil{ don’t use virgin, it doesn’t heat up properly]
• 1 cup marinara from San Marziano tomatoes, cooked 10 minutes, not more- you want it to stay bright
• splash of white wine
• 2 tsp. sweet paprika
• dollop heavy cream

Add radicchio soon after, wilt and allow bacon to turn golden, add paprika and salt; de-glaze with wine, add marinara, bring to a nice roll, add cream. Do the padellare-add 2/3 cooked penne rigate or tagliatelle to the sauce, finishing its cottura[cooking]. If you feel that you need more liquid, add more marinara and cream, but do not over-sauce!. Some grated grans padana or parmigiano, don't go overboard….

A rustic Raboso is suggested, i advise La Montecchia Forzate.

Remaining tribal, they remind modern Hungarians of their pre-European past, when the moon, stars, and trees were worshipped. Attila’s youngest and most fierce son, Csaba, is still invoked by them in their national hymn - leap down from the Milky Way and free us, your many legions following you in their chariots… This goulash is a staple at a Szekler table, especially when the whether is cool and foggy.

• 2 lbs. grass-fed beef chuck
• 1 big onion
• 1 tsp dry roasted caraway seeds
• 2 jars sieved sauerkraut Bubble’s is good
• 2 cloves minced garlic
• 8 fluid oz. sour cream
• 1TBS Sweet paprika, 1 TBS hot paprika
• salt and fresh dill

Slice beef into hefty chunks dredge lightly in flour. Brown on medium heat, using a little good fat[ you know- goose or duck]. if you insist on health, alright, olive oil will do…

Add onions and garlic, sautee till golden. Now is the time for the paprika, caraway seeds. Add 1 cup beef stock,half-way cover, and simmer, till showing signs of tenderness.

Of course add more stock, or water if things look dry.Stir occasionally. Add the kraut, which you previously rinsed and drained, and cook till everything is falling off a fork. Add the sour cream, bring to boil and continue to cook on lower heat for a minute or two. When serving add more sour cream along with freshly chopped dill. A side of rice is fine, also boiled potatoes.

If you really want to go crazy, or more people turned up than you thought, add a large spicy sausage, preferably grilled- or- thick cut fatty bacon, also grilled and scored off its skin.

Please drink a deep red. Look for Bordeaux, or a Hungarian Cabernet Sauvignon - Attila Gere makes a lovely one.

and at Rialto Mercato
705 Columbus Ave (click for map)
San Francisco 94133
Stop in, or call: (415) 397-1446

You had lunch at the sausage counter of the Great Market Hall!

Was my cousin a witch - Budapest is a large city, how could she spy on my movements? "You have the red fangs!" she laughed. And indeed upon a mirror inspection, I saw the deep scarlet stains on the rims of my lips. This was paprika oozing out of a delectable sausage. I tried to imagine the "kolbasz" without sweet and hot paprika, and nearly cried.

Tired of schlepping kilos of paprika in my suitcase on the return from Hungary, I decided to source the best quality and share with those who do not have the occasion to visit the land of the Magyars on a regular basis.

I must tell you : Hungarian paprika is the best. This is not arrogant nationalism. This is a fact.

Fact two: Not all paprika is equal. Just like wine there is the indifferent bottle appropriate for the undeveloped palate, and the superb vintage waiting to be sipped with reeling pleasure.